How Nairobi CBD is controlled by the Kikuyu, Luo, Kamba communities & the arrival of the new kid in the block the Somali who have taken Nairobi by storm?
By Dan Okwiri
Penning 🖊 my Journal Memoirs, must forewarn you this one is a long one, I want to write a little about the city that made me, I was actually born in Kiambu past Riruta around Kikuyu Town in the mid 60s’. Dad was a policeman and he did move across the country. He knew the city like the back of his hand and everyone who made it pulse. If you are in Nairobi Policeman you have to while in Nairobi’s downtown, that’s where everything beats. I schooled right in the city, Catholic Parochial Primary School deep in the CBD, and walked the streets during lunchtime and evenings.
Cause I was born Kikuyu town the Kiambu area particularly the Kingeero, Kangemi, Ruaka, Wangige, Uthiru, Kabete, Kikuyu area has always held lots of fascination for me. It is perhaps the reason I bought land in the Kabete area, which I still hold dear, it reminds of my roots.
It is said that the most dangerous women in Kenya come from this belt. Trust me they are no joke. If you live with one you must understand one rule, “A Kiambu woman must go out and look for money, dont stop her as that is ingrained in her DNA, the end justifies the means. Eventually she will religiously come back, ask her no questions, expect lies as it’s futile to persist”
Almost Kiambu women have property that their husbands are not aware, often they put it in the names of there daughters. Indeed there a Luo colleague, a Mr. Onyango I worked with in Kenya Airways who married a Kabete woman, they were literary living from hand to mouth. Unfortunately she passed on after 25 years of marriage, a man who identified himself as Kamau a rental collector knocked on his door & said gave him Kes 350k as monthly rental collection since his Mama Wambui had passed away.. He fainted in joy and couldn’t believe his luck, the family didn’t have any property he was aware of? He hurried took the cash and told me “Dan Okwiri Wuod Baba you have been a great boss but am quitting my job. Have struck a jackpot and I no longer need to work” I immediately consented to his resignation, a hard worker though frustrated over the years due to stagnancy. Today he has a cash flow of 350k every month. He has since moved to Kisumu and has two young wives, beat that my friend. Thank Nyar Kiambu!
The other thing I have never understood is their passion for Luo men. They say they give them the good life. The Kiambu men refer to Luo men as “kihii” but interestingly the Kiambu ladies don’t mind the “kihii”, a puzzle that I never quite understood? Every Kiambu girl desires to get married to a man from the North Rift, this they say is a sure ticket to land and wealth.
For reasons beyond my understanding I intermingle with Kiambu women very malleably, once you understand their vibe you get to understand & mitigate the risk. Prepare for anything with a Kabete (Kiambu) woman. Its is through a Kiambu that I got a full scholarship to do my Masters Degree, I still appreciate the Kiambu contribution and will never forget. A deal is a deal amongst Kiambu folk and one must keep his or her side of the bargain. If you dont you must know that you will end up in the dead.
The Kiambu people practice “Omerta” which is a code of honor that places importance on silence in the face of questioning by authorities or outsiders; non-cooperation with authorities, the government, or outsiders. Willfully ignoring it will land you in a morgue.
There parts of Nairobi you will not find landlords but only land ladies. All landlords are all dead. If you think am lying trying and search for house in Kawangware, Kangemi, Kikuyu, Kingeero, Wangige etc and tell me who you find? There’s nothing as short-lived as being a Kiambu man. Take this from me, a son of soil by birth though not by blood, some Kabete woman tell that am one by thinking, nowhere in this country does land have value the way it does in this belt.
If a Kiambu man inherits one acre of land around Ruaka he is already has Kes 100 million to his name, and even if he is not enterprising. The ladies are aware of this, that’s why no Kiambu land owner will get rest. His wife does not “need’ him, nether do his children. They badly need his assets.
Most Kiambu men hardly go to school and its not cause of lack of school fees. Nairobi city is next door and its allures many. The Kiambu girls too are drawn by the city lights, Kiambu women are usually short light skin, and attractive. They were first in the twilight business, today the rest of Kenya has caught up and our Nyanza girls are giving them more than a run at the world’s oldest trade.
The Kiambu progeny as a source of income usually build rentals, some keep cows or rear chicken. The men have it easy than the rest in the city as they born with land so housing is not an issue. Everywhere someone is trying to supply you eggs or sell you milk. Kiambu youth from this belt end up life being taxi drivers usually in Westlands and City Center.
Others do brokerage in Nyamakima and the hardened are deep into crime. Many of the Kiambu people have an entrepreneurial streak that is amazing & a tremendous work ethic. The only other people that surpass them are Muranga folk (a write for another day, have interacted with Muranga Kiriaini people greatly).
Every morning I board the Route 118/119 matatus at early dawn 5:30 to 6 am destined for Nairobi CBD, I never fail to observe that all the early rise commuters are ladies. They are dress in power suits, strut handbags, high heels usually in the corporate greys & navy blues. The matatus dock town in the Tom Mboya Street, this street is the Nairobi divide between Uptown and Downtown (the seedy bit of Nairobi.
All these kabete ladies on alighting walk to the uptown part of CBD, and often branch into a Java for a coffee before disappearing into one of the business offices. They are often work in the financial sector, real estate, lawyers or accountants.
The next wave of commuters into Nairobi CBD are the Kiambu/ Kabete men. They dock town from 0900 to 1000 hrs. The matatus charge less fare at that time cause its off peak. Often these men look weary with blood shot eyes. Their dress is often jeans, scruffy, khaki informal trousers, Tshirts & a few sport dreadlocks.
On alighting in Tom Mboya Street they walk downtown towards the seedier River Road, Luthuli often passing a butchery for a breakfast consisting of bone soup broth, and goat head laced with bile and pepper. I presume this is a remedy for their perennial headaches caused by their incessant daily top up of spirits/ beer.
The next group of commuters into town are the Luo urban boys. They grandfathers were born in Eastlands in Ofafa Jericho, Maringo, Kariolor, Ziwani. These guys are total urbanites and they have the most advanced Swahili Sheng slang (frankly I personally can’t understand half of it, call me the “consummate Luopean” ), sheng is dynamic and probably changes completely every 6 months. The Luo urban boys are sleek and clothed in the latest “mitumba” (used clothes) gear. These guys are more conversant with the Italian and French designer labels than the Europeans, the designer labels are segregated from the rest of the mitumba and are referred to as “camera” hence sold at a premium. The urban Luo group clad “camera” French/ Italian suits, used clothings, even used briefs crowned booted with fancy shoes.
The urban Luo group have 4 meeting points where they congregate in Nairobi City. There’s the City Hall group. They hangout opposite opposite City Hall. The next group is the Mama Ngina Street 20th Century one. The other group hangout between Green Corner and Kenya Cinema. There’s the latter group at Ambassedeur Hotel along Tom Mboya Street side..
Each of these 4 groups of the Luo urban guys make a hustle in a different way. The City Hall group make their hustle through City Hall. They know literary everything that happens in city “live” as it happens, call it in real time.. They can get anything done in City Hall even the Nairobi Governor is unable to do what these guys can do, yet his the office holder. They are the city fixers, the ultimate hustlers, suave, political astute and they come in all ages. They are multi lingual and speak Kikuyu, Kamba and go course Luo n equal measure. The restaurant owners around City Hall have now altered their cuisine to accommodate them. You will find that the brown Luo porridge “nyuka bel kaal gi marieba” is served in the Somali/ Kikuyu owned eateries around City Hall. These restaurants have also introduced “mauno soup” bone soup for the weary over indulged Luo urban hustlers. Tea isn’t a favorite for the Luo City Hall group. As a restaurant owner you have one thing to contend, these guys will sit in your restaurant all day often ordering nothing but taking up space, removing them isnt easy my friend unless you are prepared for the backlash, they are vicious.
The Mama Ngina Street 20 th Century group are the political arm of the Luo community. They earn a retainer from every politician in Nairobi. Refuse to retain them at your own risk. They normally rent one copy of each newspaper daily for 10 shillings. These guys will study, analyze, hypothesize, postulate, theorize everything Jakom has said. Jakom is their world. They know what time Jakom woke up that morning, what he had for tea, his exact location and who is not in his good books, and if you are not woe to you.
Never Never Never talk ill of Jakom here in any circumstance. These guys are extremely politically savvy, can create political events and even forecast political events. The members of this group are drawn from Kibera, Eastlands and Nairobi West. When I am the city if I want to listen to real news I call on the group.
The other group is Green Corner Kenya Cinema group. These are the Jericho, Maringo, Ziwani guys. They are traders in everything. If you want the latest mitumba accessories call on them. They are also fixers, if you want the most beautiful woman in town they will do it. In the evening they can found in Garden Square opposite City Hall. Garden Square which belts out the latest Luo/ Lingala Benga. It is also the place where all Luo funerals are planned, even for these young urbanized Luo, Garden Square is the final meeting place for every Luo’s eternal send off.
There is also the Ambassedeur Luo group. These are generally the senior Luo citizens in Nairobi. They are the most intellectual of the Luo community in the city. In these group you will find Phd Holders, engineers, lawyers and the sages of the community other than Luo businessmen. Call them the Luo dons. wazee. Jo ker. They retreat in the evenings downtown Luthuli, to Nyanza Bar to have a drink and reminisce the good old times.
In this Ambassedeur group are many retired Luo Civil Servants who have refused to go home after retirement. Many in this group suffer many economic difficulties maintaining themselves in the city but will never leave the city. They believe that they will die if they do so. Most of this group are from either JoGem, JoUgenya. JoAlego and JoKarachuonyo. Some of them have no where to sleep or fixed aboard. They will sleep in the buses in Machakos Bus Stop, the conductors charge them kes 50 for a night sleep in the bus. They help the bus owners by pretending to be passengers so possible commuters who are journeying to Nyanza may board thinking it is full not knowing these guys are pawns to fool commuters. They are there to pretend that the buses are full so the commuters can quickly board. This group benefits from this b that they also get cheap accommodation for the night. There are facilities around Machakos Stage where you can bath for Kes 50. By 6am the Ambassedeur group are spanking fresh. When see these guys cladded in smart “camera” Italian designer wear, please note they have gone through a lot, so please appreciate there style if anything else. After no Nairobian will ever tell his or her real place of residence, you would be shocked.
Every time I arrive Nairobi from Migori, Wuod Baba is what they call me, its is my routine I pay a courtesy call on each of these groups, I have know many of them intimately over the years. The welcome I get is overwhelming, the Nairobi City Hall Group always feted me at the best joints in town. They have the cash.
Whilst meeting the 20th Century group they expect a brief of political landscape in Migori County, nowhere is politics hotter in Kenya than Migori who also happen to host the “man in black” brigade. The 20th Century group have a tremendous fascination, call it awe from anyone from Migori.
Nairobi town is partitioned by the hustlers, each street has its owner, the street commander is the de facto street head. Under each street there are his brigade. The street commanders control everything that happens on the street. Even the Nairobi County Askaris have to work with them to collect parking revenue. The Bible says give to Caesar what is his and to God what is his too, trust me if you want car to be safe follow this law. Pay the Nairobi County its parking fees and pay the Street Commander his dues for allowing you to park & security. If you ignore the street you do it on your own peril, I once paid dearly and ended up losing both my headlights, car jack, spare tyre, tyres were deflated and imagine even the askaris guarding a bulldog in Kimathi Street “conveniently”didn’t all see this happening all in broad daylight. Since that sad day, before I park in Nairobi CBD I must first salute & pay my homage to the Street Commanders. Interestingly when am broke they do understand and give me credit.
Kenyatta Avenue the main thoroughfare has 2 street commanders.
The upper part around 680 Hotel ran by the Kikuyu urban group and the lower part towards the Stanley Hotel side ran by the Luo/ Kamba urban group. These 3 communities basically control all the activities in Nairobi city. They too have an omertà and never cross into each other’s territory.
I usually park in the upper part of Kenyatta Avenue controlled by the Kikuyu urban youth. Have known the boys for years. I usually hand over my car to the group on the street whilst in traffic and the car running. They will find a parking as all the parking slots have been pre blocked by the group anyway. Should try to find a parking on your own you will circle town for hours without respite.
My trust is 100%, the commander & his brigade will never steal, tamper or disappear with your car. Several times I have left my car for an overnight or two days running and will find everything completely intact. These guys are great, they are delivering a great service for a fee, I thank them everyday and have watched the boys grow to men.
The Somali community is a relatively new entrant in the Nairobi CBD fraternity and believe me this community has literary taken Nairobi CBD by storm. They stream into town from around 11am. Many of them wake up late cause of their night long sojourn miraa sessions. They congregate around Jamiya Mosque.
There are in 2 groups in the Somali circles, firstly the Kenyan Somalis and the secondly the Somalian Somali. The Somalian Somali are more business astute. If they are business machines in Kenya, I tell you it is the Somalian Somalis, I have lots of respect for the business acumen of this community. They work under an omertà brotherhood system, and invest in groups. The Somalian Somalis have taken over the restaurant business in Nairobi by storm in every street in Nairobi. Somali biryani and meat dishes are now common part of the Nairobi cuisine, you get arosto, hilibari, otka, Canjeero, lahoh everywhere in Nairobi something unheard of uptown 2010.
They also love coffee and have introduced lattes, cappuccinos, macchiato to the Nairobi unsuave, the Kikuyu and Luo Urban groups today relish it, the coffee froth isnt cheap. A cup can set you back kes 300.
The Somalian Somalis stand out from the Kenyan Somalis as they love to clad in suits. They have also introduced a new business known as online shopping. Today I buy all my gear on FB online from the Somalian Somalis and it’s delivered the next morning to Migori. Everyone in Migori laments “Wuod Baba” others call me “Masai” is astonishingly smart. If you think I am, please thank the Somalian Somalis for this!! The Somalian Somalis restaurants work 24 hours, people literally eat on shifts and they have a brought a new 24 hour life to Nairobi city. The Somalian Somalis being business people literary discuss, dream, think or sing business. They think of nothing else.
In the evening at around 5 to 6 pm the Kingeero, Kabete, Uthiru, Wangige, Kikuyu corporate ladies board the matatus and retreat back home after their coffee dates at Java. It’s on Fridays that they will extend their coffee dates till 8 pm. Nairobians have a term for Fridays, they call it ladies night. Everyone in Nairobi usually dresses down apart from the Nairobi urban City Hall group.
The Kabete Kiambu boys will still remain downtown till midnight++. They rave late till the night or is it dawn. This is what makes Nairobi vibrant. These Kingeero, Kabete, Uthiru, Wangige, Kikuyu urban boys cut and broke many deals often till the night, Marijuana flows in from Nyanza and they ran the distribution networks in the city, more and more youth especially young ladies have taken to smoking marijuana, its the new rave and demand for it is at an all time, how it passes over 20 road blocks from Nyanza to be delivered fresh every morning to the city is bewildering, the logistical chain is amazing and its now in every suburb both up and down town.
The newspaper sellers, handicapped in wheel chairs are all part of the logistical chain, they too need to make a decent living for Nairobi is one of the most expensive cities in the world. One cant make a living just by selling papers anyway.
The Meru community hang downtown in area known as Tea Room along Accra Road. They supply the succulent twig known as miraa to the Somalian Somalis who then distribute in the Somali neighborhoods. Today Somalis are dominant in Eastleigh, Pangani, Fedha Estate past Donholm, South B and South C areas. Neighbor migration is normal in cities and communities have changed,
Most of the residents in these areas were retired citizens in the old neighborhoods, they have cashed in their properties as Somalian Somalis pay a hefty premium as they love living as a community and with the proceeds the former residents have moved in the far flung outskirts in Rift Valley Kajiado, Kamulu towards Kagundo,
The Nairobi tyre industry was inherently controlled by the Kamba community. Kambas are natural experts in carving. Some of them took advantage of this God given talent and cut grooves in bald tyres with razor blades, and then sold them as new, this con made many clients lose faith..
The Somalian Somalis noted the customer dissatisfaction and today import tyres in bulk from China and have now taken over the tyre industry by storm.
The Luo urban groups also stay in town late into the night. Nairobi is literary a 24 hour city, fast food joints operate throughout the night. The matatus ply throughout the night and people revel everywhere.
Many of the buildings in Nairobi were formerly owned by the Muranga businessmen, they bought these buildings in groups on the departure of the colonials.
Today these buildings are being sold off and snapped by Somalian Somalis. They are totally revolutionizing the city’s landscape plus the demographics.
The Somali Hass petroleum group is currently constructing the tallest building in Nairobi known as the Pinnacle Towers. When completed, the skyscraper is expected to become the tallest building in Africa and the third tallest building in the Southern Hemisphere, at 70 stories and over 300m in height. This investment reflects the arrival of the Somalis on shaping Nairobi future and Kenya’s economy.
Nairobi is an amazing place, and no city in Africa other than Lagos can match its vibrance. It is the multicultural melting pot that makes the people of this great African city so special.
#okwiri 🖊 my Journal, my thoughts, my walk.....
okwiri@gmail.com
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